A single woman, no longer in my youth, and with no family here – what am I still doing here? Well, sometimes I ask myself the same question.
The answer I usually give is: Bangkok hasn’t stopped fascinating me yet, despite my 18 years in this bustling city! This city changes from day to day – you never know what’s happening around the corner. It’s a vibrant mix of people from all over the world – or at least from most corners of it.
That diversity has also led to an incredible culinary scene. And if you’re, like me, with a deep passion for food and wine, then you’re truly surrounded by it here. Bangkok is a culinary Mecca. I can hardly think of a cuisine that isn’t represented here.
What surprises me, though, is how underrepresented Swedish cuisine is. In recent years we’ve had the Michelin-starred VILLA FRANTZEN, but why don’t we have a simpler restaurant serving traditional Swedish comfort food in Bangkok?
I know such places exist in Pattaya, and most likely in Hua Hin and Phuket – perhaps even in other parts of Thailand. A well-cooked traditional Swedish dish is hard to beat.
Chef Mateo
During my years in Bangkok, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting many chefs – both established stars and those with star potential. I’ve enjoyed classic Mediterranean dishes, Italian of course, Indian, Thai and many more.
Recently, I met a chef from Texas who works for a Swedish-Thai family, ensuring they’re served well-prepared, flavorful, and nourishing meals. His relaxed style and creativity caught my interest right away. Since I visit this family almost weekly, I’ve often taken the chance to talk to him about his culinary journey – and of course, to sample his cooking.
I can already reveal that his POLENTA might be the best I’ve ever had – and that’s saying something, considering I used to eat polenta regularly while living in Lugano, in the Swiss region of Ticino.
His baking is also impressive. I’m not usually one for sweets, but his Banana Cake, sometimes enchanted with chocolate and nuts, absolutely melts in your mouth. It’s impossible to say no.
Let me introduce you to Chef Mateo.
Born and raised in Texas, he readily admits that he must have been born with a passion for food. His younger sister was opening a restaurant right after completing her culinary training. One day, when a couple of chefs didn’t show up, Mateo quit his job and stepped in to help.
“It was in my sister’s restaurant, that my career in a professional kitchen began “he says.
I asked who had inspired him to start cooking, and he told me it was his aunt’s and grandmother’s cooking that inspired him the most. He used to hang around in his aunt’s restaurant that she had for many years.
“They have a background in Mexican cuisine and both women put their soul into their dishes. You could really feel-and taste – that. It taught me to put my heart on the plate, too. He added, “I’ve also had the privilege of working with many inspiring chefs around the world”.
Naturally, I was curious about what brought him to Thailand. Mateo explained that he came here to seek inspiration and to learn more about Thai cuisine.
When he first arrived, he worked as a chef at CARNE. He also consulted and helped conceptualize new restaurant openings and culinary projects across Southeast Asia. Most recently he was even shortlisted to become head chef at KOL, a high-end London restaurant, known for its Mexican-inspired cuisine. But in the end, he chose to stay in Bangkok.
Now he is working on a farm-based project and cooking privately. I asked if he sees this as a long-term path.
“To be honest, I have never cooked in someone’s home before-it was totally unfamiliar to me, he said. But it’s given me the opportunity to do R&D, work on kitchen design at the farm, and learn more about organic permaculture farming. Right now, we’re growing eight different types of chilis from Latin America, among many other vegetables.”
I, recently heard about “private dining” experiences, where chefs are hired to cook in someone’s home for paying guests. It seems to be a growing trend, especially in Bangkok. I asked Mateo if that was something he could see himself doing in the future.
Here Mateo hesitated before answering, clearly taking a moment to reflect.
So, I followed up by asking what kind of cuisine he enjoys preparing and cooking.
“My background is in Italian, Japanese and modern American cuisine”, he said, “but I really love it when I get a chance to cook Mexican food”.
He admits that he loves a good taco and barbacoa – a traditional Mexican dish from meat that’s slow-cooked until tender, often seasoned with chilies, garlic, cumin, gloves and other spices. The word “Barbacoa” originally referred to a method of cooking meat over an open fire or in a pit covered with leaves. These days, it’s usually steamed or braised. Mateo also has a flair for all kinds of smoked meats.
“I’m quite proud of my tortillas” he adds – and I must say, after trying them, he has every reason to be.
Recently, Mateo was a guest chef at TONY’S, located on Sukhumvit soi 11. Although I often visit soi 11 and some of its restaurants, I had never been to Tony’s before. It turned out to be a lovely place – with a warm and welcoming atmosphere – and I had the pleasure of meeting its friendly owner.
I asked Mateo how he and Tony knew each other. He explained that they first met years ago when Mateo took part in an event at the legendary Havana Club.
“I felt truly honored when Tony invited me to come and cook for “Cinco de Mayao” he said. For this special evening, the Italian restaurant was transformed into a celebration of Mexican culture.
Guests were given colorful sombreros, and the menu featured a range of popular Mexican dishes. It was a lively and successful night. Here are some of the delicacies:
A guacamole topped with fresh Uni from Japan served with warm corn chips
Pork neck carnitas cooked in pork fat with mandarin orange and spices
Beef cheek barbacoa smoked with local jackfruit wood
All the tortillas for these tacos were hand-pressed using heirloom corn masa
The salsas were very spicy but delicious. Using ingredients like tomatillos, chile tepin and chile guajillo
For dessert: a milkshake spiked with rum, homemade roasted banana-malt icecream, creme fraiche whipped cream garnished with a churro and “cajeta” (a Mexican style caramel that’s made from goats milk and cinnamon).
Tony’s has been open for about four years now. It’s a traditional Italian restaurant that offers both indoor and outdoor seating.
To wrap up my interview, I asked Mateo about his future goals and dreams. His answer came without hesitation:
“Keep on cooking and developing my skills. I love to find simplicity in my cooking and also improve on my technique. In my opinion, food should be authentic and simple, having a place in the market and not be easily duplicated.”
“My dream, well just to go on with what I’m doing, as it gives me great satisfaction.”
Mateo isn’t a stranger to the idea of opening his own restaurant in the future and putting Mexican cuisine on the map in Bangkok. Let’s hope his dream comes true one day.
What more I appreciate about Bangkok?
Let’s talk about something other than food for a moment. There’s so much more I appreciate about Bangkok. Take healthcare, for example. The international hospitals here are almost like five-star hotels. In how many countries can you sit down in a hospital and listen to live piano music in the lobby, drop by Starbucks, or shop for luxury beauty products – just to name a few things?
You rarely have to wait long – if at all – before you’re taken care of. Most doctors have studied or trained abroad, and they usually speak English well.
In other words, you feel seen and taken care of. The nurses are often dressed in neat pastel uniforms with little caps on their heads – none of those shapeless county-issued coats and orthopedic shoes you see elsewhere. I find it comforting to rest my eyes on something stylish when I’m not feeling well.
Of course, all these extras come at a price. Nothing in life is for free, unfortunately. Insurance isn’t cheap, but in my opinion, it’s a necessity. I’d rather cut back on partying or a trip and put that money toward good insurance.
The “regular” hospitals are probably very good too, but for us foreigners, it can be harder to make ourselves understood – or to understand others – if you’re not fluent in Thai.
What else fascinates me?
Well, as a woman, I feel very safe here. Unless it was absolutely necessary, I wouldn’t walk home after a night out or visiting friends if I were in Sweden. But here, I do it often, and in my 18 years of living here, I’ve never felt afraid or being harassed. Maybe this is where I should knock on wood?
I could go on and on. Maybe there will be a part two – time will tell.
Stay tuned!
What a heartfelt and beautifully honest reflection! It’s amazing how a place like Bangkok can continue to surprise and inspire even after nearly two decades. Your passion for food and cultural diversity really comes through and now you’ve got me wondering why there aren’t more cozy Swedish spots in the city too! Maybe it’s a gap waiting to be filled by someone just like you.