Khun Na and Bent Laasholdt are clearly thriving in their new roles as resident managers of the Shinnabhura Historic Boutique Hotel in Phitsanulok. Their change from being the owners of The Admirals Pub and Restaurant in Sukhumvit Soi 24 to now managers of this fascinating property in the heart of Thailand seems to have happened exactly at the right time in their interesting lives.
Phitsanulok is very much a historical town. King Naresuan was born in Phitsanulok and he is celebrated not just in this town but all over Thailand as a national hero by the Thai people for liberating the country from the Burmese during his only 15 year reign from 1590 to 1605.
Being an old tour guide, Bent enjoys showing visitors around town and tell stories about every detail we see. During our visit there recently, we went to see the ruins from that time and there we met a group of young people practicing the Thai sword fight. Bent shared contact details with them and now these young warriors are going to demonstrate their skills at the New Year Party at Shinnabhura Historic Boutique Hotel.
Although Bent and Na feel ownership of this unique hotel, Bent admits that one of the reasons for them to enjoy their new job so much is that they don’t own it in any legal sense.
“It is a very nice feeling to be employees. It is like half the responsibility has been taken off your shoulders,” says Bent Laasholdt who looks ten years younger than when we last met at the Admiral’s in Bangkok.
“I am still trying to remember that I should report everything to the owners and ask for permission instead of just making my own decision like I used to do, but it feels nice,” he adds.
Khun Na also confirms her happiness with the new job. She also looks younger than in Bangkok. Is there something in the air in Phitsanulok?
Actually not old at all!
The weirdest information that needs to be shared with the readers of ScandAsia is, that in reality, this hotel was opened only six years ago! How is that possible? How is it possible to build something that looks and feels so authentic like it was built around the time of King Naresuan?
I opened a maintenance shaft and looked inside and there was the proof: Modern building material, pvc pipes, modern cabling. Then I closed it and the wall looked again like this castle had been built in the 18th century.
“The owners wanted to replicate this old style and found the only architect in Thailand who dared to do it,” Bent explains.
Bent loves to tell stories and shared with us how it was the owner of the restaurant at the front of the property by the road who initially got the idea and persuaded one of the current owners to go along with it. They spent a lot of money on it.
Bent and Na got involved because Na’s sister’s husband today owns the majority of the shares of the whole property and the rest of the shares are held by a friend from his school years. Both of them were frequent customers at Admiral’s and they admitted that they did not have the time to run the property – while at the same time they liked the way Bent and Na managed Admiral’s Pub and Restaurant.
“Actually, our retirement plan was to move to Koh Chang and set up a little restaurant there – but once we saw this location we didn’t hesitate to drop our original idea and take on this opportunity,” he says.
Another strange thing is that although it was built only six years ago maintenance is a big headache – because everything is made to look so close to the original style.
“I’ll give you an example: The wall around the property is built using original size bricks with original mortar. When one wall partially collapsed, I at first tried to find the same material but it was way too expensive,” he explains.
So Bent instead rebuilt the wall in concrete but recreated the feel of the surface so you actually cannot see where the old wall ends and the rebuilt wall begins. Well, you can if you go really close, but that was not worth the exorbitant cost.
Phitsanulok is not far away
Going to Phitsanulok is just a few hours by car, but most Bangkokians have this idea, that it is far north. We drove there, left Bangkok at noon and arrived for dinner at 7 pm. Bent came out to greet us and we quickly put our luggage in the room on the 4th floor and then went down for dinner with him and Khun Na.
Another charming way to go to Phitsanulok would have been to take the train and arrive at the central train station where you still see the old bell used by the station master and staff every time a train arrives and leaves.
Technically, you can also go there by air. The airport is actually quite near the hotel.
Charming city
The city is located on the banks of the Nan river and the following morning, Bent took us on a bicycle ride from Shinnaburra to the Nan River and along the river for a total of 20 kilometers. Halfway, it started raining, so we waited it out in what looked like a bus stop – then continued when it was almost over – which lasted for quite some time.
Eventually, we were soaked, but then the sun came out and we dried up again on the way back navigating some of the old streets in downtown Phitsanulok. This is also where you find many of the historical monuments and beautiful temples of Phitsanulok. This route is highly recommendable. If you go on your own, ask for help with plotting the end point into your GPS/ Google maps – it is not hard at all.
If you should ever get tired of history, you can also go golfing or visit the beautiful waterfalls in the vicinity. Or just stay in your room.
Yes, let me tell you about the rooms. Wow! This is how the rich people live, I suppose! We were accommodated in the most luxurious suite of them all, so don’t get disappointed if you book one of the standard rooms, but in our suite, there were two bathrooms, plus a jacuzzi tub by the foot of the enormous bed.
All water tabs and handles are of brass and the whole atmosphere is like two hundred years ago. Including the cabinet for hanging your clothes. This is where I found the shaft for maintenance hidden away that brought me back to the present day when I opened it – then I quickly closed it again. Living in this amazing time capsule is much more fun!
The Shinnabhura collection
The Heritage Arts gallery within Shinnabhura is an impressive collection of historical artifacts.
To visit the museum, you walk up the wide ancient staircase from the lobby. There you find soldier costumes, weaponry, and detailed metal embossing. Each piece is a result of dedicated research.
The weapons are not original museum artifacts – they are created in an effort to preserve the traditional Lanna sword-making techniques. Each sword, a unique masterpiece, stands as a testament to the dedication of these craftsmen, ensuring the legacy endures.
Metal embossing, wood carving, and painting continue this narrative. Your fingers are itching to touch and feel the intricate details, connecting with the cultural identities of the two periods of Ayudhaya and Lanna.
Particularly the Buddha statue tells the story of the 25-year war in a special way: The gesture of the Lord Buddha is the so-called Pang Ham Samut pose, which symbolizes a plea to both warring sides to halt the figting.
Our stay at Shinnabhura was like visiting a living history book, offering us an opportunity to dive into the rich cultural diversity of Thailand. Imagine if this place was your home!
No wonder Bent and Khun Na are thriving here!
